Best Trees to Plant

Tree planting tips

Most trees die in the first two years, and nearly every time it's because of how they were planted or how they were (or weren't) watered afterward. The tree you paid $80 to $300 for at the nursery is an investment. These tips protect that investment.

When to plant

The best time to plant a tree depends on your climate:

  • Zones 3-6 (cold winters): Plant in early spring, after the last hard frost but before trees leaf out. Late September through mid-October also works, giving roots time to establish before winter.
  • Zones 7-9 (mild winters): Fall planting (October through December) is ideal. Cool air slows top growth while warm soil encourages root development. You'll go into summer with established roots.
  • Zones 10-11 (warm year-round): Plant during the rainy season, whenever that falls in your area.

Avoid planting in the heat of summer. A stressed tree fighting heat while trying to establish roots is a dead tree by September.

If you're planting bare root trees, timing is even more critical. They must go in the ground while dormant, typically January through March. For step-by-step guidance, see these bare root planting techniques.

Choosing the right spot

Before you dig, look up. And to the sides. And down.

  • Look up: Are there power lines? A tree that will grow 50 feet tall doesn't belong under a power line. Your utility company will butcher it into an ugly shape to keep it clear.
  • Look sideways: How far is the house, sidewalk, driveway, and property line? Plant at least half the tree's mature canopy width away from any structure. A Red Maple with a 40-foot spread needs to be at least 20 feet from your house.
  • Look down: Where are your water lines, sewer lines, and septic system? Tree roots go where the water is. A willow planted near a sewer line will find that pipe and destroy it. Call 811 before you dig to locate underground utilities.

If you're planning a larger project, working with a professional landscape design service can help you place trees where they'll thrive and complement the rest of your yard. Check your soil drainage too. Dig a hole 12 inches deep and fill it with water. If it drains within 4 hours, your drainage is fine. If water is still standing after 12 hours, you need a tree that tolerates wet feet (like Bald Cypress) or you need to improve drainage before planting.

How to dig the hole

This is where most people go wrong. The hole matters more than the tree.

  • Width: Dig it 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball. Roots grow outward, not down. A wide hole with loosened soil lets them spread fast.
  • Depth: Dig it exactly as deep as the root ball, no deeper. The root flare (where the trunk widens at the base) should sit at or slightly above ground level. Planting too deep is the number one killer of new trees.
  • Sides: Rough up the sides of the hole with a shovel. Smooth, compacted sides act like a pot, trapping roots.

Planting the tree

  1. Remove the tree from its container. If the roots are circling the root ball (root-bound), use a sharp knife to score the sides in 3-4 places. This breaks the circular growth pattern and encourages outward rooting.
  2. Set the tree in the hole. The root flare should be visible at or just above the soil surface. If it's buried under soil or mulch, scrape it away until you see it.
  3. Backfill with the original soil you dug out. Don't amend it with peat moss, bark, or special soil. Research shows that fancy soil in the hole creates a boundary that roots won't cross. Native soil forces roots to spread into surrounding ground.
  4. Don't add fertilizer at planting time. New roots are fragile. Fertilizer can burn them. Wait until the second growing season.
  5. Build a shallow basin around the tree (about 3 feet diameter) to hold water. Water deeply and slowly until the soil is saturated.
  6. Spread 2 to 3 inches of mulch in a ring from 3 inches away from the trunk out to the edge of the basin. Do not pile mulch against the trunk.

Watering: the first two years are everything

New trees need consistent water while they establish roots. Here's the schedule:

  • First two weeks: Water every day if it's warm, every other day if it's cool.
  • Weeks 3-12: Water every 2-3 days.
  • After 3 months: Water once a week during dry weather.
  • Year 2: Water deeply once a week during dry spells.
  • Year 3 and beyond: Most established trees handle normal rainfall. Supplement during drought.

"Deep watering" means slow and long. A trickle from the hose for 20-30 minutes, or a 5-gallon bucket with a small hole in the bottom set next to the trunk. Surface sprinkling doesn't reach the roots.

If you're using municipal tap water with high chlorine, let it sit in an open bucket overnight before using it on new trees. Chlorine can damage young root systems.

Staking

Most trees don't need staking. A trunk that sways in the wind develops stronger wood than one held rigid by stakes. Only stake if:

  • The tree is on a windy, exposed site
  • The root ball is too small to anchor the tree
  • The tree leans significantly after planting

If you do stake, use two stakes on opposite sides, connected to the trunk with broad, flexible ties (not wire). Tie them loosely enough that the trunk can move slightly. Remove the stakes after one year. Leaving them longer causes the trunk to stay weak at the tie point.

Common mistakes that kill new trees

  1. Planting too deep. If the root flare is buried, the trunk rots. This kills slowly over 2-3 years and people blame the tree instead of the depth.
  2. Mulch volcanoes. Piling mulch against the trunk holds moisture against the bark and causes crown rot. Leave a 3-inch gap.
  3. Not watering enough in the first summer. New trees need water every week during warm months. Period.
  4. Overwatering. Waterlogged soil suffocates roots. Water deeply but let the soil dry slightly between waterings.
  5. Fertilizing at planting. Wait a full growing season. The tree needs to grow roots first, not leaves.
  6. Buying the wrong tree for the spot. A 60-foot tree 10 feet from your house is a future foundation problem. Match the tree to your space.

After planting

The first two years are the critical window. Keep up the watering schedule, refresh the mulch annually, and inspect for signs of stress: wilting leaves, bark cracks, or discoloration.

After year two, your tree should be established and largely self-sufficient. That's when the payoff starts. Give it another 5-10 years and you'll have real shade, real fall color, and a tree your kids will remember.